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Village Explorer

Indochina Day Six

View Indochina 2020 on ToonSarah's travel map.

Village street

With a more civilised start time of 8.00 am we were able to have breakfast at the hotel this morning. We were offered the choice of 'continental' (muesli or cornflakes, toast, fruit) or 'American' (eggs and either bacon or sausage). As we knew lunch would be early, we both went for the continental option. The muesli was good, the fruit great, the coffee OK but the toast floppy and cold.

Sam and our driver picked us up promptly and we set out on our 'Village Explorer' tour, which would include lunch with a local family. I am always in two minds about this sort of experience. Is it voyeuristic and exploitative to go to 'stare' at people in their homes, living very different lives to our own? Or is good to be participating in activities that benefit local people financially, and to be meeting and engaging with them? As Selective Asia are a very conscientious tour company (with initiatives such as supplying every client with an aluminium water bottle and daily fresh water refills to reduce the need for single-use plastic), we decided to trust their judgement and go for it! The tour would also give us the chance to learn about life in Siem Reap away from the temples of Angkor which dominate the scene here as far as visitors are concerned.

Village wedding

We drove to a village a short distance out of town, I believe somewhere in the vicinity of Puok to the west of Siem Reap (but I could be wrong!). The plan was to visit the local market and shop for ingredients for lunch. But when we got out of the car we heard loud music from a house just down the road, and equally loud talking on a microphone. Sam explained that a wedding was in progress and suggested we went to have a look.

The wedding spilling out into the village street

Sam also said that it was OK to take photos, but I hesitated at first, not wanting to intrude. However several people around the entrance to the marquee beckoned us to come closer and one man, who spoke English, asked where we were from and said we could take whatever pictures we wanted to - so I did!



Some of the wedding guests
~ there seemed to be a lot of waiting around and chatting on the fringes of the activity

Wedding ceremonies here traditionally lasted three days, but nowadays they have been pared back to a day and a half. And the traditional thirty changes of dress for the bride are now only eighteen! This particular wedding was at the stage where gifts of food and drink are presented by the bride's family, the hosts, to the visiting family of the groom, while the groom's family in turn give money, in red envelopes - or at least, that is what I understood to be happening.

Waiting to distribute food and drinks

A photo of the happy couple, and girl distributing food

Distributing the food and drinks

Sam told us that the bride would soon appear, which she did, heralded by a gong. She came from the house, accompanied by bridesmaids, and went to pay her respects to both sets of parents who were sitting on a raised dais. Meanwhile the groom was sitting in the 'audience' with an uncle who seemed, from Sam's explanation, to be performing a similar role to the best man at our weddings.

The bride

Village market

Once we had seen the bride we left the wedding and went across the road to the village market where Sam and our host Mr Noon, who had met us on arriving here, chose vegetables and chicken for our lunch.

Mr Noon and Sam at the village market

Shopping for vegetables

The vegetable seller

Vegetable stall

Butcher and shopper

This market is the ‘one stop shop’ for the village and surrounding farms, and there were stalls selling all sorts of things, not just food – clothing and shoes, toys, electronics, furniture, gold jewellery …

Taken near the village market

Drinks stand

Rip-off trainers

Butchers shop sign?

Village life

We were then encouraged to ride in a traditional ox cart through the outlying areas of the village - traditional perhaps, but certainly not comfortable! The locals have had the sense to upgrade to cars, motor bikes or tuk-tuks, and I suspect find it amusing that tourists are less sensible!

Ox cart

View from an oxcart!

Rural scene

We stopped to visit one house where the grandmother was grinding rice to make pancakes, helped by her granddaughter. Children here go to school in shifts, either morning or afternoon, and while at home are expected to help around the house or perhaps with the family business. But school is compulsory for 12 years, from 6 to 18.

Rural house


Grinding rice

A friend of the family, a nun (hence the shaven head), was visiting and happy to pose for photos.

Buddhist nun

Monastery visit

We climbed back into the ox cart and travelled further out of the village to visit a monastery. I have been trying without success to identify where this was or its name.

We walked through the cemetery, with its cremation site, small stupas (each containing the ashes, Sam said, of one or more family members) and funeral cart.

Ox carts and stupas

Stupa and stupa detail


Funeral cart

Shelter over the funeral cart

By far the most ornate building in the complex was the temple, built only last year. We could see the by now familiar motifs of naga (five or seven headed snakes), garuda (winged beasts) and other fantastical creatures. The outer walls were covered in paintings depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha, each sponsored by a local donor or donor family. It was interested to see that the amount of each donation was included in the inscription - $70 for a simple image, $150 for a larger or more elaborate one, $300 for an entire gold-painted pillar. We couldn't go inside but were able to see through the open door that every surface there was also covered in paintings.

Garudas holding up the temple roof, and naga balustrade

Painting on the temple walls

Main temple, exterior and interior

Door detail, and sign acknowledging donation

Nearby we came to a group of statues each depicting one of the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac - monkey, rooster, goat etc. These seem to be considered just as significant here in Cambodia as in China.

Rooster statue, and garden scene

Monks' residence

Building details


A gong sounded to call the monks and nuns (both live here together) to their lunch. We followed a few in the direction of their open-sided dining room and found that here too we were welcome to take photos as they chanted their (lengthy) grace.

Chanting the grace before lunch

Lunch time



Some of the monks

But once they started to eat, we left them to it. It was time to go for our own lunch.

Village lunch

So it was back into the ox cart for another bumpy journey along the sandy tracks to the home of our host, Mr Noon. He had obviously gone ahead of us after leaving the market, as pots were steaming over fires in the kitchen. We were made welcome, and his wife started to bring in platters of food - fried chicken, vegetables and the ubiquitous steamed rice. There were also bowls of lemongrass-scented chicken soup. It wasn't fancy but it all tasted good.

In the main room of the house

Some of the lunch dishes

Separate outdoor kitchen

As we ate their three year old granddaughter played nearby, and played up to my camera! Later their younger daughter (sister to the child's mother, I learned) arrived home from morning school and shyly came to talk to me, keen to practice her rather basic English. It was she who explained the family relationships to me, and she showed me photos of her sister's wedding on her phone, as well as of herself and her school friends.

Mr Noon and granddaughter

The granddaughter

At one point I was idly looking out of the open door when I saw one of the many dogs in the village come to sniff my shoes and socks, left there when we entered. Much to everyone's amusement he picked up one of the socks in his mouth and set off down the village street, with Mr Noon running after to retrieve it for me. Goodness knows why a dog would want my smelly sock!

Angkor Artisans

Our driver had brought the car to meet us here so we had a more comfortable ride back to Siem Reap. There we stopped at Angkor Artisans, a craft workshop where locals (many of whom, we learned, are deaf) are trained in stone or wood-carving, metalwork, weaving and other skills.

Carving an elephant

Carving a lion

I was especially fascinated by the stone pieces reproducing elements from Angkor - the faces of the Bayon, the friezes of Angkor Wat and more. If I had a huge penthouse apartment, and the wallet to go with it, I could imagine I would be tempted by one of those friezes. As it was, I settled for some hand-made lemongrass soap!

Unfinished bas relief (copy of one at Angkor Wat)

Working on a copy of a Bayon face, and a carved Buddha

Later that day …

Back at the hotel I had a swim in the pleasant pool, and we relaxed for a bit. While doing so I had a text message from my bank, wanting to verify a potentially suspicious transaction which had been declined. As the location was given as a town in India I knew it could not have been either of us so I confirmed that it was indeed suspicious, and the bank called me as soon as they received my reply. In the lengthy conversation that followed (which ended up costing me around £25!) I was taken through security, recent payments were checked and all found to be in order apart from that one in India, my debit card was blocked and a new one ordered. All very helpful on the bank's part, and it wasn't their fault that the call had cost me so much, nor that I wouldn't be home for three weeks to receive that new card. But it meant that we would have to rely just on Chris's card if we needed extra cash, and also that our two coffees at Bangkok Airport had cost us around £30 in total. I resolved to contact Dean & Deluca on our return, and perhaps to try complaining to the shop itself when we transited through the airport again on our way home.

Night out in Siem Reap

Meanwhile though we had a holiday to enjoy! So late afternoon we walked into the centre of town to take some photos by the river (reflecting a pink sunset) and have a pre-dinner beer in one of the bars of lively Pub Street.

Sunset near the night market

Evening in Siem Reap

For dinner I tried amok, one of the main traditional Cambodian dishes I had yet to sample, wanting to do so before leaving the country tomorrow. It is a light coconut-based fish curry very like Thai cuisine. I enjoyed it, although not as much as some of the meals I had elsewhere. After dinner we went back to Pub Street, to a different bar, where I had a good Mojito and Chris another beer while watching all the action.

On Pub Street

My mojito, and bar decoration

Bar sign, Pub Street

Pub Street activity

On our way back to the hotel we detoured to take some more photos down by the river. It had been a good ending last evening in Cambodia.


Near the night market

Posted by ToonSarah 07:56 Archived in Cambodia Tagged art people night food wedding restaurant market cambodia village buddhism siem_reap pubs monks monastery crafts crops customs pub_street

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Another amazing day Sarah. I am exhausted just reading about it but love the atmospheric pictures (especially as hailstones are being driven hard at my window as I type). I appreciate your initial qualms about dining with the locals as we had similar thoughts a few years back when we actually stayed in the houses of locals across Cuba. The only problem with that was their lack of English but, despite our only having basic Spanish, I would highly recommend it to anyone traveling there. It was very fortuitous, arriving in time to see some of the wedding celebrations but, I have to admit, I was rather concerned about your host buying a chicken at the local market. I was so relieved when I saw it was already prepared! Your comments about the donors being named on the temple reminded me of fundraising here where donors "buy a brick". A good idea is never wasted. Thankyou for so many insights into Cambodian life.

by Yvonne Dumsday

A beautiful and very full day to round off your visit to Cambodia.

by Nemorino

Hi Don and Yvonne, and thanks for visiting (and so quickly after publication!!) Yvonne, our host only bought vegetables and fruit (the best mangoes ever!) at the market but there was chicken in our lunch - I suspect one of their own that had been butchered but I may be wrong. In any case, it was very tasty but had little bones in it so I mostly stuck to the vegetable dishes and the mango!

by ToonSarah

Wow Sarah what a day! I really enjoyed reading it and your photo's just keep getting better. How do you manage to label your photo's? I couldn't see any option on one drive. I kept waiting to find out what happened at the host's home! The food sounded great, how long did you spent there? The wedding was very colourful and the pictures really told a story. Glad I've got the time now to catch up with blogs and have nearly finished one on my trip to Lebanon last year. Keep them coming Sarah x

by katieshevlin62

Hi Katie - thanks for the kind words about my photos. Although I do label them when uploading to TP, the labels here are simply typed in underneath as to write the blog, and formatted in bold for emphasis. I started doing that from my very first blog here and have kept to that style :)

We were at the home in the village for around an hour, I think, talking and eating. And I must read about your Lebanon trip as that's somewhere I'd love to go one day, once we can travel again :)

by ToonSarah

A very full day. You certainly managed to see a lot. In Siem Reap we went to visit the garden of a local artist who made miniature versions of all the temples in the area. We also did a trip to Tonle Sap Lake. Your day looks like a very good option with lots of local colour.

by irenevt

Hi Irene - I would have liked to have gone to Tonle Sap too, but this was certainly a good day out :)

by ToonSarah

Yet another interesting day! Was it an Monday wedding? I am looking at the color of the brides dress ;)

by hennaonthetrek

Good question Henna No, it was a Friday, but if they change 18 times maybe for the actual ceremony she chose the 'right' shade of blue!

by ToonSarah

sounds like a more than interesting day. I have to admit that I have the same questions, but in the end the experiences are always worthwhile and seeing your pictures, I am sure you had a great day!

by Ils1976

Yes, a great day Ils - the wedding was a bonus, and the family we had lunch with were so welcoming and informal that we didn't feel like intruders. Besides, I know the money they receive for hosting us must be welcome in a relatively poor area - they don't really see the financial benefits here of the hoards of tourists that descend on the city!

by ToonSarah

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