In Corcovado National Park

Our room was filled all day and all night with the sounds of the jungle and of the waves of the Pacific crashing on the shore just below us. I thought it might keep me awake but in fact I had fallen asleep quickly and easily. However when I woke up around three AM there was no going back. My body clock was still on UK time and was convinced it was long past time to get up! So I dosed fitfully until just before our 5.30 alarm, at what point we were both more than ready to start our day.

After a nice bowl of granola and tropical fruits for breakfast we boarded the small boat that was to take us and seven other lodge guests to the national park, Corcovado. This is primary rainforest, preserved intact.

The ride took about twenty minutes and was pretty bumpy at times. The early morning light was beautiful; I would have like to have travelled more slowly in order to take photos of the coast and waves breaking on the rocks. One of the latter, very craggy, somehow had a whole tree growing from the top. I tried my best between bumps and got a couple of shots.

We had a wet landing by the ranger station but could use some showers there to wash our feet and dry them before putting our shoes back on. And here I could get that desired photo of this beautiful coastline, albeit from a different angle, on land - see above.

Our guide David led us along a path that bordered the coast to the north of our landing place, a walk of about two miles I believe. Little hermit crabs regularly scuttled across our path. And in many places we had glimpses of the sea between the trees and at times walked down on to these tiny but stunning coves.

As we walked David pointed out some of the more interesting plants. The red ginger flowers. The sea almond trees beloved by the macaws. The bromeliads and strangler figs. The beautiful scented white flowers of the Barrigon Kapok tree, a favourite food of the monkeys.

Most of the path was quite easy walking but in places there were muddy spots to navigate and lots of vines and branches along the way with the potential to trip you (well, me at least!) up. We saw huge termite nests attached to many of the trees.

The wildlife wasn't as plentiful as I'd anticipated. But we did see the following:
Spider monkeys (in the distance and impossible to photograph)
Several spiders, including a Golden Orb
A large lizard
Chestnut Backed Antbird
Grackles
An elusive anteater up in a palm tree

And we heard pumas but didn’t see them (a group visiting the following day was luckier, spotting two on the path we had walked just 24 hours earlier!)

The best sightings by far were of the Scarlet Macaws. We spent a lot of time trying to photograph them high above our heads, eating the sea almonds. David pointed out how the hermit crabs gathered at the foot of the trees to eat any fruits dropped by the birds.

When we got back to the ranger station, after a detour in search of the anteater, it was about ten o'clock and I was very weary, with an aching back. We looked on jealously as another group were given fruit, cookies and water; the hotel had told us picnics weren't allowed at present due to the pandemic (although I have no idea how they could spread the virus!) Later I learned that it was a general national park rule, which made more sense, and the other group and their guide were breaking it.

After a short break David led us over to where a river meandered down to the sea. There were several crocodiles on the banks. Including a juvenile.

David then proposed a second walk up to a waterfall on a path said to be rather more challenging. I decided to give this a miss, as did one of the others in the group, a friendly Paraguayan/Canadian. He and I sat and chatted a bit, then I amused myself watching and photographing the pelicans diving for fish, and taking more photos of the beautiful beach.

When the main group returned from their walk Chris showed me his sodden trainers. They had had to wade through a river with a bed of sharp stones and he'd been advised to keep his shoes on! I was more pleased than ever with my decision not to go. One walk had been more than enough for me and I’d had a wonderful morning.

Incidentally Chris’s trainers remained damp for much of the holiday and were thrown away before we flew home!

We all waded out the boat and climbed in, after which the longed-for fruit was served as well as brownies. The watermelon and pineapple were so juicy and the brownie tasty, although we'd have enjoyed them all the more had they been handed out mid-morning rather than just before lunch.

When we got back to the hotel we freshened up and then yes, it was lunchtime. The rice and chicken I'd ordered at breakfast time were tasty, and we were then asked to order dinner. A sensible system given the remote location and relatively small number of guests.

We spent the afternoon sorting photos, taking more around the grounds, and generally relaxing after our tiring morning. We had a great sighting of a large lizard down by the jetty as well as more hummingbirds in the bush opposite our room.

The evening followed the same pattern as yesterday, with drinks on the terrace and a meal at large tables. My mango daiquiri was as good as last night's papaya and the mahi mahi probably the best dish of the trip to date.