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A ‘state of arrested decay’

California day ten


View California & Nevada 2024 on ToonSarah's travel map.

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Crossing the Sierrra Nevada south of Lake Tahoe

In order to leave the Hilton we had to get our car back from the valet which took about 10 minutes as the text messaging didn’t work with our phones. I resented all over again having to pay for a service we didn’t want!

Once we had the car we drove just down the road to a nice local coffee shop for breakfast, then set off on what was to be quite a long drive. But while long, it was also one of the most scenic of the trip so far, with glowing aspens and distant mountains.

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Crossing the Sierrra Nevada south of Lake Tahoe

Bridgeport

We stopped at a small town, Bridgeport, for petrol, a leg stretch, and a cold drink. We found some quirky things around the town to photograph, especially by one of the motels.

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In Bridgeport

We then continued to the road that would take us to Bodie State Historic Park. This involved driving on a winding road, the last three miles of which are unsurfaced, but suitable for regular saloon cars.

Bodie State Historic Park

Bodie – a town so lawless that in 1881 it was described as ‘a sea of sin, lashed by the tempests of lust and passion’
(a quote by the Rev F M Warrington in the State Park brochure)

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Bodie

Bodie is a former gold mining town, now a ghost town which, as the website says, has been ‘preserved in a state of arrested decay'. The same website has a brief history of the town:

The town is named for W.S. Body (or Bodey), who had discovered small amounts of gold in hills north of Mono Lake. In 1875, a mine cave-in revealed a rich vein of ore, which led to purchase of the mine by the Standard Company in 1877. People flocked to Bodie and transformed it from a town of a few dozen to a boomtown. In 1881, Bodie's "bust" began and the town's population declined drastically. The town's population continuing to decline until only a few remained. Mining officially ceased in Bodie in 1942, the final nail in the coffin for Bodie's township. Two large fires in 1892 and 1932 reduced the town's remaining structures down to less than 10% of the 2,000 structures that once stood.
Source: Bodie State Historic Park website

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Bodie

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The mine

During its boom years (1879-1881), as many as 8,000-10,000 people lived here. Although the majority of houses and business properties were lost to those two fires, 110 buildings still stand in and around the town and their interiors remain as they were left, still stocked with goods and furniture.

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A hotel

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Hotel bar, and warehouse office

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The schoolhouse

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A department store window

We spent well over an hour wandering around taking photos, peering into the houses, shops etc. which had a Marie Celeste air. While most are closed (so my photos above were taken through grubby windows!) one house stands open, the rooms left as they were when abandoned by the residents.

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Inside a house

I read that so much furniture and other possessions were left as the road in and out of the town was so rough it was easier and cheaper for the people to rebuild their lives elsewhere from scratch rather than take everything with them.

The Methodist church and Miners Union Hall are also open, the latter serving in part as a museum and visitor centre.

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In the Methodist church

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Funeral carriage displayed in the museum

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Mock-up of general store in the museum

Lee Vining

After leaving Bodie we retraced our steps to the main road and continued south, with some great views of the surrounding hills and wonderful aspen trees.

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On Hwy 395

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Views from the road

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At Mono Lake Vista Point

We had good memories of our visit to Mono Lake when in the area in 1981. Back then there was no tourist development at the lake (or if there was we didn’t find it!) but we had managed to get quite close to the water’s edge. Today we visited a Visitor Centre which is set a long way back so our views of the tufa were limited, but we saw on a map the location of another access point which we resolved to visit tomorrow.

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Mono Lake Park near Lee Vining

For now we headed to our booked motel in Lee Vining, the Yosemite Gateway. Our room there was simple but had a terrace with a partial view of Mono Lake and a comfortable bed.

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Yosemite Gateway Motel

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Our room

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View from our room

We settled in and had a walk to check out the immediate area, including options for dinner of which there proved to be just one as others had already closed for the winter season.

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In Lee Vining

That one restaurant option was Nicely's, a simple American style restaurant, which I’d seen was well reviewed. We enjoyed our dinner there (I had the fish tacos), washed down with a few beers.

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Nicely's by day, and Halloween decoration inside

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Nicely's by night

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Fish tacos

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Sunset over Mono Lake from our motel

Posted by ToonSarah 12:49 Archived in USA Tagged landscapes lakes history views church california houses usa mine street_art

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Comments

Those pictures of the ghost town are amazing. Hope to visit one myself one day ... and the fish tacos looked really good!

by Ils1976

My dad grew up in an old silver mining town in Colorado - not a ghost town because people still live there. His brother - my uncle told me that Colorado and a lot of the west only has yellow and some orange and brown leaves in the fall - no red because maples are not native that far west. So when I read a book that says the leaves turned red in Colorado I want to edit the text in the book.

by greatgrandmaR

Bodie is really worth a visit Ils, highly recommended! Rosalie, technically a few people do live in Bodie but only state park staff and (I think) their families. So if it weren't a preserved historical and tourist site it would be a ghost town, but they do prefer you not to call it that!

by ToonSarah

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