A visit to Bangaan, among the rice terraces

I slept much better, although anyone who thinks that the countryside is quiet hasn’t stayed in a rural Filipino town! Dogs barking, birds calling, cockerels crowing, and heavy rain thundering on the metal roof of the hotel ... I was glad again that I’d brought ear plugs! And when we got up there was a lovely little swallow sheltering from the elements on our balcony.

Breakfast was from a menu and we both opted for ham and cheese omelette which was very good. After we finished we popped outside to check the weather (wet!) and saw a line of traditional Filipino jeepneys parked there so braved the elements for some photos!

Then we set off in the rain with Jezzy and a local guide, Conchita, riding in one of those jeepneys. The rain was to fall for most of the day, though the intensity varied from light drizzle through steady to occasional downpour!

Our first stop was at the market in Banaue where Conchita showed us how the locals prepare and chew a mix of betel nut, betel leaf, tobacco and slaked lime powder, which they call moma, as protection against the cold. I saw several signs throughout the day in several locations, ‘No spitting of moma’

Conchita then took us around the small market and explained some of the produce displayed. People were all very friendly and happy to be included in my photos or to pose. We spent some time trying to explain the meaning of the slogan on one woman’s t-shirt, ‘I traded my sister for a leprechaun‘ as although she was wearing it (bought second-hand, naturally) she had no idea what it meant!

Leaving Banaue we drove towards one of the most scenic areas of the famed UNESCO listed rice terraces. We stopped at a viewpoint, although the rain and low cloud restricted how far we could see.

Soon after we stopped again briefly at the place where we were to eat lunch, as we had to pre-order. Conchita pointed out her own village, Bangaan, nestled among the rice terraces far below us. ‘That’s where we are going', said Jezzy. I gulped! I knew we would need to tackle some steps today but I’d been assured that she would take us to a village that was easier to reach, as I'd warned her I would have difficulty tackling a lot of steps. If this was supposed to be easy ... !

It was worth it however. We drove a bit further along the road to a point where stone steps started the descent to the village. As I made my way very cautiously down those steps, often slippery and very uneven, I stopped often for photos as the views of the village below changed and new angles on both buildings and rice terraces opened up.

The rice terraces of Bangaan

The Ifugao people have farmed these terraces for two thousand years, and today’s farming methods have changed little since the terraces were created. Using modern machinery and farming methods would be totally impossible here. Each family owns a few terraces, and Jezzy told us that traditionally the red shrubs we saw were used to mark the boundaries. But the community works together to maintain the stone or earth walls, and they help each other out at harvest-time. This is subsistence farming; the rice is grown to feed themselves, not for sale. The Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, with Bangaan one of five individual locations included in that listing. According to the UNESCO website:

For 2,000 years, the high rice fields of the Ifugao have followed the contours of the mountains. The fruit of knowledge handed down from one generation to the next, and the expression of sacred traditions and a delicate social balance, they have helped to create a landscape of great beauty that expresses the harmony between humankind and the environment.

About halfway down we stopped at the local school. While we had been in the market with Conchita, Jezzy had gone to buy lollipops and wafer biscuits for the children. I would personally prefer to offer pencils or maybe postcards from home on such a visit. But we hadn’t come prepared, while Jezzy had. And the sweet gifts were certainly appreciated!

There were some children in the playground who clearly knew what to expect from our visit as they rushed over to greet her as soon as we appeared. We went into each class at a time, starting with the youngest. In each the children recited a greeting, but they received the treats differently according to age. The younger ones hurried over to us, those slightly older stayed at the desks looking expectant, while some of the oldest continued with their work while we walked between the desks, only pausing briefly to say ‘thank you ma'am’ or ‘thank you sir’. But all were ready as we left to chorus as drill ‘Thank you for coming to see us, please come again'. One class went further and sang us a rather military hymn

From the school we descended a lot further until finally we reached the village. On the way, and despite the steady rain, I took lots of photos!

Bangaan has been labelled as a Living Cultural Landscape as it still retains a few traditional Ifugao houses called bale. Conchita's was the first house we came to, and she welcomed us to sit down. She introduced us to her mother-in-law, daughter-in-law and two grandchildren, the youngest just two months old. She brought coffee while Jezzy showed us the first stage of preparing rice for cooking, stripping the grains from the stalks. We were encouraged to have a go, with mixed results! Conchita then demonstrated how they pound the rice, winnow, pound and winnow again to get it ready for cooking. They do this every day, preparing the rice that, like most Filipinos, they eat with every meal.

Conchita then showed us around the village. We saw some of the traditional Ifugao houses, bale, built on raised platforms. Rice can be dried in the open below, the family live on the first floor and the loft area is used to store rice. The access ladder is raised when no one is home. And the platform is attached to the uprights without nails so they can be easily separated should they want to move their location.

Outside one home we met an elderly woman who showed us her weaving, and who spoke decent English. Then we returned to Conchita’s house where we were urged to try on some traditional dress. Neither of us is particularly keen on this sort of activity but it would have been churlish to refuse, and her little grandson was keen to join in the fun.

We had bought a small woodcarving of a rice guardian such as sits outside most homes here, as both souvenir of our visit and way of saying thank you. And as we left they produced gifts: a fridge magnet and a bag of the rice we had ‘helped’ to prepare.

After that it was time to tackle the steps back up. This time I counted them. There were almost 500, varying in depth from just a couple of centimetres to probably more than 20! I managed the first two thirds or so, to the school, without too much difficulty although I needed a couple of short rests and a longer one at that point. But the second part really took it out of me, and I felt pretty drained and wobbly when we finally reached the top. However I was pleased to have managed it as the visit to the village had been really lovely, with everyone we met there so welcoming.

We returned to the tea house for our pre-ordered lunch, which was excellent, especially the al dente julienne vegetables in honey, ginger and lemon heaped on to my chicken. As we ate we were amused by the antics of one of the small cats who was clearly angling for a share!

After a slice of banana loaf for dessert and a few last photos of the rice terraces below us it was time to return to the hotel. Our jeepney driver successfully negotiated hazards that included chickens and dogs in the road, oncoming tricycles and muddy landslip areas. Once we were back we said goodbye to him and to Conchita, who had been especially lovely and helpful. We made sure to tip her generously as we knew it would be shared with family members too.

Dinner that evening was from a menu rather than a buffet. That was a shame as I’d resolved to have only soup and fruit after that big lunch! We were asked to pre-order on our return to the hotel and both chose a dish of crispy pork and rice. Having told them when we wanted to eat, and arrived promptly, I was disconcerted to find that my meal was stone cold! Chris’s was just lukewarm and he was OK about eating it but I really couldn’t face cold fried egg and cold rice even if the meat might have been palatable. I asked if they would reheat it which they kindly agreed to do. When the plate came back it was with new pieces of hot pork while the rest was at least warm, though the egg of course now rather over-cooked! Still, at least I could eat most of my meal before the sheer amount of rice defeated me. And the mango for dessert was as delicious as yesterday’s!