Exploring Vigan on our own

We'd arranged to have a day here in Vigan without any guiding booked, although even so Jezzy and Edwin took some convincing that we wouldn’t need them and they could take the day off! We had a leisurely breakfast but nevertheless went out quite early to make the most of the slightly cooler temperatures.

There was quite a lot of cloud, which would break up later. That helped to keep the temperature a little lower, as did the pleasant breeze, but meant the light was a little flat for photography. Just the same I took plenty as we took a meandering route through the old part of the town. There were lots of the small details that I love to photograph, such as the interesting street signs that mark out the historic district, and the features that demonstrate the deep Roman Catholic faith of many Filipinos.

The architecture here fuses native Filipino and Oriental building styles with more typical colonial Spanish features. The traditional features to look for include stone lower and wooden upper floors, capiz shell windows in small squares, decorative ventilation holes in the eaves which keep the buildings cooler in the hot Vigan climate, and plenty of ornate metalwork. I spotted a few shops selling old windows, for instance, suggesting that locals were actively trying to restore and preserve these old features.

And of course I also indulged in some street photography. Plus a dog, just because …

Our route eventually brought us out on to the main thoroughfare, pedestrianised Calle Crisologo which runs south from Plaza Burgos through the heart of the old city. It is lined with shops (mostly selling souvenirs), cafés and a couple of hotels, all located in traditional buildings constructed in the local style, with that fusion of native Filipino, Oriental and colonial Spanish.

We stopped for coffee at Amian Café, not far from the Plaza Burgos. The coffee was very good, and we sat for a while enjoying our drinks and the a/c.

When we left the clouds had lifted and there was hot sunshine in its place. We made our way towards the cathedral. The blue skies set off the sculptures of saints around the perimeter fence very well, but it was no easier to get photos of the cathedral itself than it had been yesterday.

By now the sun was fiercely hot so we sat for a time in the shade of some trees in Plaza Salcedo before braving the heat again to take more photos around the area. There was a line of colourful tricycles (motorcycles with a sidecar) along one side of the square while their drivers waited for business, enjoying a cigarette and a chat with friends.

We then zigzagged back towards our hotel, taking in some more of the side streets.

On one corner we met three school children who asked me to take their photo. I complied and when I showed them the result there was laughter, high fives and fist pumps!

When we’d been to Grandpa’s Inn for dinner last night with Jezzy and Edwin we’d spotted a local cooperative opposite selling souvenirs in aid of local charities. We sought it out and had a nice chat with some older local school pupils who were volunteering there. We bought some typical Filipino snacks to take home as a gift for my family.

Back at the hotel we took a break to cool off, then went out again to find a light lunch. A casual local eatery, Coffee Break Vigan, had just what we needed – a delicious tuna club sandwich to share plus refreshing mango smoothies.

After lunch we decided on a chilled afternoon. We spent some time by the pool and I had a nice swim, and I also reorganised my bags ready for moving on tomorrow.

In the evening we went back to Café Leona's where Jezzy had kindly booked us a table. Despite that they had to bring out an extra one for us and being at one end of the row meant we were quite exposed to the occasional breezy gust which flapped the tablecloth and at one point tipped over my beer bottle! Once we managed to convince the waiter that it needed securing things settle down and we had a lovely meal of chicken sisig (sizzling), vegetables also sizzling and rice, washed down with a couple of San Miguel beers.

After dinner we had a stroll around the Plaza Burgos before going back to the hotel to finish sorting our things ready for tomorrow’s departure.