A return to Taormina

I slept well, only woken briefly around 5 by a rather vocal bird nearby! But I went back to sleep and woke again just before seven by which time all the birds seemed to be making their voices heard!

I soon gave up trying to go back to sleep, so got up and once dressed went outside to take some photos. There were great views from the back terrace of Mount Etna on one side of us and Taormina on a hill on the other side.

Downstairs (ours was a first floor apartment) I found the hotel cat sleeping soundly on a chair near the breakfast room. While I was taking some shots of various details our host came out, carrying food to the breakfast table and encouraged me to come in and take photos of the considerable spread he was laying out!

That breakfast was served from 8.30 onwards and we made the most of it! I had two cups of excellent espresso, bread, cheeses, pastries and fruit, and yet that was just a small sample of what was on offer!

Mid-morning we set off on the drive to Taormina, with a recommendation from our host on where best to park. Josie did a great job of navigating and Jim an even better one of steering the large car up and round the hairpin bends. At the top we found the multi-storey carpark and were able to take the lift up to emerge in an open area with a great view of the coast.

From here we took a very leisurely walk through the town. It was very busy but not as much so as I feared – but it was only May. I dread to think what it is like in August!

Our walk took us along the main pedestrianised street, Corso Umberto. Soon we reached the small piazza in front of the cathedral. In the centre is a Baroque marble fountain featuring mythical creatures. Its centrepiece is the symbol of the city of Taormina, a crowned centaur who holds the world in his left hand and the sceptre of command in his right.

We went into the small cathedral which is dedicated to San Nicolò di Bari. It was built around 1400 on the remains of a thirteenth century church, although its façade was rebuilt in 1636. It is relatively simple inside and was a cool and peaceful spot, contrasting with the busy streets outside.

After drinks in a café opposite the cathedral we continued our walk under increasingly cloudy skies. There were however plenty of interesting details to photograph, so the grey sky wasn’t too much of an issue. There was much that I remembered from my stay here with Chris back in 1989, although it was busier and even more touristy. Corso Umberto was lined with high-end clothes shops as well as those selling souvenirs, and we browsed in a few. I resisted a rather pricey linen shirt! On either side the steep side streets were quieter and prettier.

Walking further along under increasingly cloudy skies we felt a few spots of rain, so decided to stop for lunch a little earlier than we had intended, given that large breakfast. We found a great little restaurant, La Cisterna del Moro. It had a covered terrace and sea views where we enjoyed excellent pizzas.

The rain came to nothing so after lunch we continued along Corso Umberto and through an old stone gate, the Porta di Mezzo, to reach the main square, Piazza IX Aprile. From the belvedere here there are even better views of the coast. But the Chiesa di San Giuseppe here was unfortunately closed.

Leaving the square we passed a sculpture of Oscar Wilde, who visited Taormina in 1898. He was charmed by its beauty and described it as a ‘lover’s paradise’. The rain held off as we continued to follow Corso Umberto, with plenty of photo opps along the way.

We then continue along the street to reach the ancient Greek Theatre or Teatro antico di Taormina. It was built originally by the Greeks in the third century BC. They carved out the mountainside to create an amphitheatre in which their dramas could be performed. The backdrop to these dramas, more imposing even than the theatre itself, was Mount Etna, framed between the columns of the stage. Later, in the third century AD, the Romans remodelled the theatre, removing the stage to create a space for gladiatorial games.

Unlike much of the town I found that this had changed more since my 1989 visit. There was increased tourist infrastructure (visitor displays, access ramps, etc) but also increased prices: a hefty €14 entrance. Nevertheless, we went in, and although it was too cloudy for the famous view of Mount Etna it was still great to feel the atmosphere of those ancient stones and as Jim pointed out, imagine how many other bums had sat there over the centuries!

As we left the theatre a couple of us started to fancy our first gelato of the trip, while someone else mentioned a cold drink. So we stopped at the first likely looking place, a simple bar with a good selection of ices on display. We all chose our flavours - a mid-sized tub holding two scoops was a reasonable (for this tourist hot-spot) €3.50. I had pistachio and coffee, others went for cherry, lemon and tiramisu. All were pronounced delicious, and we also enjoyed a chat with one of the barmen, a young man who had spent a year living in Bradford and seemed keen to practice his English.

From here we slowly made our way back along the main pedestrianised street. We stopped much less this time – fewer photos and no shopping. Part way along the occasional spots of rain we'd been feeling became much larger and we took shelter in a doorway until the worst of the shower had passed. It had already stopped by the time we reached the car park, where we paid and set off back to our hotel. On the way we stopped off at a large supermarket where we stocked up on supplies for a simple evening meal. There was a huge selection so it took us a while to navigate and choose.

By the time we got back it was well after six. I chilled in my room for a bit, sorting through my photos, then joined the others in our shared dining area to enjoy some of that food (we'd bought far more than necessary knowing we would want to do the same tomorrow) and talked over ideas for the next couple of days sightseeing, plans for next year’s Euromeet which Colin will host in Liverpool, plenty of good-natured gossip and more.