A laidback Sunday in Randazzo

It rained heavily in the night and there was a further heavy shower soon after I got up, but it had stopped by 8.30 when breakfast service began. I went down but finding myself the first had a wander around the garden photographing the rain-drop laden flowers.

We took our time over breakfast again before setting off mid-morning to explore one of the region ‘s less well known towns, Randazzo. It sounded interesting in the file of info on the table in our apartment, and so it proved.

We drove inland around the foot of Mount Etna in ever-improving weather. Arriving in Randazzo we lucked out in finding a parking spot as someone was backing out just as we drove up. We had a drink in a nearby coffee shop then set off to explore.

Randazzo is the nearest town to the summit of Mount Etna, lying on its northern slopes. Its architecture reflects its location. Many of the older buildings here are constructed from the black lava stone from Etna, giving them a very distinct appearance.

The first interesting place we came to was the Chiostro S.Francesco di Assisi, now forming part of the Town Hall. We couldn’t go in but could peer through at the graceful cloister.

Online sources later told me that it dates from 1610 (but with much older foundations). It has served as the city’s Town Hall since 1866, when new laws against religious corporations led to the then Italian Government expelling the Friars and confiscating their assets. In adapting the rooms to function as a town hall the cells and all other distinctive internal features were lost. The Allied bombings of July-August 1943, when the Allies liberated the island from Nazi control, did the rest.

Outside we found an interesting modern sculpture depicting Peace, Love, and Liberty.

Chiesa di San Nicolò

We had no guidebook and no particular destination in mind, although we’d read in a leaflet in the B&B that the basilica was worth seeing. So we wandered in that direction, soon finding ourselves in the Piazza di San Nicolò, dominated by the church of the same name. This is the largest church in Randazzo, its oldest parts dating back to the 13th century. It was renovated in 1589, as a plaque on the south side records, and later in 1605.

Its imposing façade shows off nicely the use of dark lava stone for which the city is well-known. The coat of arms above the central door depicts the Easter Lamb, indicating that this was once the seat of a bishop.

We found the church open so some of us went in to explore while others rested outside in the piazza. It seemed relatively plain compared to other churches we visited in Sicily but with some interesting details: a Wedgewood blue side chapel, a very graphic sculpture of the crucified Christ, an ornate design made from dried pasta which I thought might be left over from a recent festival.

Leaving the church we continued our stroll in the rough direction of the basilica.

Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta

Eventually we reached the Basilica which was unfortunately closed but we enjoyed photographing the exterior. It is said to stand on the spot where there was once a cave, inside which early Christians used to meet to pray in secret at a time when their Roman rulers were persecuting any who followed this new religion. Later a shepherd boy found an image of the Madonna del Pileri inside this cave. According to legend the Virgin saved what was then a small village from an eruption of Etna in the 3rd century AD. A small brick church was later built over the cave, replaced by another between 1217 and 1239 and by the current building in the 17th century.

The façade was restored in a Gothic Revival style in 1863. Most of the structure is in the local black lava stone. This gives it a rather sombre appearance, but I liked the symmetry, echoed by the pattern on the piazza in front.

We'd hoped to find lunch nearby but the nearest likely place was full. So we started to walk back towards the car, knowing there were one or two places near there. On the way we passed the ruined Chiesetta di San Gregorio which a sign told us was destroyed by WWII bombing apart from the crypt which still remains beneath the soli here.

And success! Near where we’d parked the car we found a great alternative lunch spot, Antico Sappori, with a fabulous three course menu for €30. The waiter only spoke Italian but I was able to understand enough to order for the table – a large variety of antipasti (aubergine, fennel, ham, cheese, an asparagus tortilla, filo pastry quiche, mini lentil patty) and two pasta dishes served family style- one with a creamy pistachio sauce, the other a tomato and veal ragu.

Fried fennel and lentil patties

One of the pasta dishes

The desert was a choice of cakes and we all had a ricotta cheesecake. For all of that, a small glass of red wine and some water I paid just €34. The service wasn’t fast but was very friendly, as was the atmosphere in the two small rooms. After the meal we were looking at some old photos on the wall and the man pointed out one taken in 1944 in which the rubble of allied bombings was clearly visible. He bore no grudge and seemed proud to tell us General Patton had been in the town.

Castiglione di Sicilia

We left soon after our meal, planning to stop off on the way back in the attractive old hilltop town of Castiligioni di Siciliana we'd been struck by on our drive that morning. But the winding road up into the town was lined with parked cars and stressful to drive, so when we finally found somewhere to pull over and stop we simply popped out for a few photos of the view before driving back down.

Instead we stopped at a roadside café for cold drinks before heading back to the B&B. As we went I was following the scores in the last Premiership matches of the season. Newcastle needed either at least a draw or for other results to go their way in order to secure Champions League football next season. Amazingly they managed it although it looked unlikely for a while as they lost their match against Everton. But thanks to Manchester United beating Aston Villa they managed it, giving me something to celebrate this evening.

We all gathered in the apartment to enjoy some chat and a bite to eat, though I was still too full from lunch to want a lot. And we didn’t stay up late as it had again been quite a tiring day.