Meeting the Vedda

Another decent night's sleep and reasonable breakfast, after which we took a walk along the jetty to the small gazebo. It was very peaceful there apart from the noise of a peacock who was displaying beautifully (and being totally ignored by a nearby peahen!) A stunning kingfisher landed briefly on a railing by the gazebo but flew off before I could photograph him.

Later we sat out on our terrace watching all the bird activity while checking emails, sorting photos etc. I had a short dip in the rather lovely pool (despite the relatively cool, dull weather) but found with my pulled muscle I couldn't really enjoy swimming. So it was back to bird-watching, which was a real delight here. Not being an expert I relied on Google Lens to help identify the species later.

We went to the restaurant for lunch (sandwiches) and were briefly excited to be told it was to be pizza night - only to be disappointed when there was a knock on the bedroom door a little later to tell us there was to be no pizza after all!

In the afternoon we went on a visit to the local Vedda people’s cultural village, Rathugala. The Vedda are the indigenous hunter-gatherer peoples of Sri Lanka, with roots tracing back to the Neolithic period (around 10,000 BC). They speak a very different dialect and practice ancestor worship as well as worshipping gods with specific roles such as protecting them in the jungle. Historically, they lived in caves, although we were told that today there are too few caves, so they have started to build simple houses. They use bows and arrows for hunting and collect bees’ honey. Their diet includes game, yams, and honey, and they practice herbal medicine. While visiting the cultural centre felt rather artificial at times it was nevertheless interesting to learn more about these people through one man’s lived experiences.

This particular group of Vedda relocated to this area in the 1950s when the Gal Oya artificial lake was created, drowning their ancestral homelands. The government at the time offered to move them to a conventional village but they didn’t want to abandon the jungle and their traditional lifestyle, so they came here instead. Back then there was no road through the area as there is today; it was all jungle. Today they still live deep into the woods but operate this ‘cultural village’ by the roadside to introduce tourists to their customs and way of life.

Our visit took place in and around one of the caves that were the Vedda people’s original homes here. Around this they have constructed replicas of the simple homes they use today and several other buildings. Our host showed us various aspects of their lives, such as trapping animals and making fire.

We saw a replica of the small houses (really just sheds) where a daughter spends up to a week closeted with an adult female relative when she first starts to menstruate. At the end of that time. When her horoscope indicates it is time for her to leave the room she returns to the family cave or house and the small hut is destroyed (even if she has younger sisters who might make use of it in their turn). She is welcomed back to the family with a big celebration and is now considered a young lady. I was surprised when our Buddhist guide from the lodge told us that many Sri Lankan families still do the same thing, although the girl would be kept in one room of the house rather than a separate building.

We had a demonstration of a traditional dance performed for the god of the jungle. What we saw was just one man doing a relatively short dance; apparently it would normally be accompanied by drumming and last all night. Before and after the dance the area was cleansed with turmeric water, and at the end we were all blessed with it.

Our host then played a tune on a traditional flute. I found the music rather lovely and haunting, a wistful reminder of the precarious nature of the Vedda culture.

We were also taken to see a small museum with photos of family members from around 100 years ago, animal bones and traditional weapons. We all had a go at firing a bow and arrow, some more successfully than others. I was pleased to get the arrow away even if I didn’t hit the tree! There was even a library with a few books and animal photos on the wall.

Despite some initial reservations about whether this would be too intrusive, I soon realised that the whole experience was completely in the control of the Vedda themselves. We weren’t invading their space, they were welcoming us to a small part of it set aside for just this purpose. And our host was very engaging and friendly.

So instead of feeling uncomfortable with the experience I enjoyed it. I was pleased to learn about this very different way of life and to support their efforts to maintain it. It’s quite likely that these visits contribute to their efforts to preserve a way of life increasingly under threat. We learned how the next generation aren’t interested in living this way. They want phones, cars and jobs in the city. We may have met a member of the last generation of traditional Vedda people.

We got back to the hotel in plenty of time to shower and change for dinner. I quite enjoyed my masala dosas although the portion of three was excessive!